tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-246250855348429572.post3050749096456559117..comments2023-06-05T07:53:36.938-07:00Comments on Tony's Woodshop: Yes! We're Nearly There!Tony Vhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/08583680577506714746noreply@blogger.comBlogger4125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-246250855348429572.post-17124064832538987602007-11-12T12:34:00.000-08:002007-11-12T12:34:00.000-08:00God, my reading comprehension is not what it shoul...God, my reading comprehension is not what it should be today.<BR/><BR/>The back of the cabinet does indeed look like the drawing, except for the bit with the narrow back piece. I'll post a picture of it some time soon.<BR/><BR/>TonyTony Vhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08583680577506714746noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-246250855348429572.post-47496236520124488922007-11-12T12:32:00.000-08:002007-11-12T12:32:00.000-08:00Neil:I just realized I didn't answer your question...Neil:<BR/><BR/>I just realized I didn't answer your question.<BR/><BR/>The drawing shows a cove molding under what looks like a top shelf at the top of the base cabinet, and the upper cabinet appears to sit on top of this shelf. This is an illusion, designed to mask the joint between the two cabinets.<BR/><BR/>The cove molding will be applied even with the top of the base cabinet face frame. There will then be three flat pieces mitered, glued & nailed to the top of the cove molding. They will create the appearance of being a shelf, and the joint line between the two cabinets will actually be behind these pieces.<BR/><BR/>The upper cabinet base will then have a quarter round molding glued & nailed to it that will rest on top of these faux shelf pieces. This will also help to mask the joint. The quarter rounds will only be attached to the upper cabinet.<BR/><BR/>Hope this makes sense.<BR/><BR/>TonyTony Vhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08583680577506714746noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-246250855348429572.post-50150939298967605392007-11-12T06:59:00.000-08:002007-11-12T06:59:00.000-08:00Hey, Neil!Thanks a lot! I appreciate the encourag...Hey, Neil!<BR/><BR/>Thanks a lot! I appreciate the encouragement!<BR/><BR/>You've got a good eye! The back as it is put together is indeed slightly different from the drawing. In the original drawing, I didn't have the narrow back piece sitting in a rabbet; it is just attached to the outside of the shelves & the back panels.<BR/><BR/>Originally I was going to put this piece on last, but I didn't quite like the way this looked in the drawing.It just looked like the cabinet was going to be too narrow in the back.<BR/><BR/>So I cut the rabbets in the back of the shelves, which effectively made the narrow part wider. It also makes the cabinet a little shallower, both inside & outside The difference in volume inside is minimal, while it should mean it will fit into corners a little better.<BR/><BR/>It also means that when I do the glue up, I have to install the narrow piece before I put in any of the back panels, or the cabinet will not go together at all. No big deal, but I think it ends up looking better than the drawing.<BR/><BR/>TonyTony Vhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/08583680577506714746noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-246250855348429572.post-36250696668044364612007-11-12T04:24:00.000-08:002007-11-12T04:24:00.000-08:00Hi Tony....Man you are coming along. Looks great.L...Hi Tony....<BR/><BR/>Man you are coming along. Looks great.<BR/>Love the thought process you took us through on the back panel, (a paraphase..) "went to church, a stop at a CT Dinner, home by 3pm and by then I figured out a solution." Great stuff!!<BR/><BR/>I went back to an earlier post on your drawering and was wondering if the back of the case looks like the drawering or did you just extend the length of upper cabinet parts to create the space for the belly molding?<BR/><BR/>Tony.....really coming along, I guess we can now check off one of the "dry fits" from your procedures list.<BR/><BR/>COOL!!!!!........NeilUnknownhttps://www.blogger.com/profile/12156567758717661246noreply@blogger.com