I did get out into the shop for an hour or so tonight. The kids had finished their home work & Mary had taken our son out to the arts & craft store for some supplies, while my daughter was making a turkey out of some feathers & styrofoam balls. So I figured I'd break down the dry fit & fine tune a few things.
At the right is the last picture I took of the cabinet, showing how it looked at the end of the day on Sunday. If you look closely at the pattern of the shelf pin holes in the backs of the upper cabinet, you'll notice that the left panel has four (4) fewer holes than the panel on the right. Luckily, that's exactly what the problem is -- I didn't drill all of the holes I was supposed to drill on the left panel.
So the first thing I did tonight was to set my DW621 back up for the drilling operation, then set up the shelf pin jig and drilled the remaining four holes. Since I finished the last set of holes, I purchased and received a Pat Warner round, clear base for the DW621 router. This is actually bigger than the original base that came with the router, so I had to set everything up a little differently. I basically just had to move the clamp holding the jig in place.
After that was done, I fine tuned the length of the backs & cleaned up the bevel on one of them, which had moved a little relative to the fence as I made the last cut. This went fine & was done lickety split.
I removed all of the upper cabinet's parts & marked them so I'd be able to put everything back in the same orientation Next, I used my Veritas medium shoulder plane to sweeten the rabbets for the back panels in the upper cabinet sides. I had to make these rabbets a little deeper so they would align with the rabbets in the shelves and the panels would sit flush. A few minutes of planing was all it took.
Lastly, I took the base cabinet apart, marking all of the parts, and sweetened the same rabbets slightly. Just a couple of swipes & I was done.
When I get into the shop next, I'll first remove as much of the pencil marks on the front outside & inside parts with denatured alcohol. Then I'll sand the solid wood parts with my ROS, starting at 120 grit and ending with 180 grit by hand. I'll sand the plywood panels with 180 grit by hand. Lastly, I'll glue, screw, and brad nail everything together.
I'm also taking all of next week off from work. We'll be visiting my in-laws in upstate New York for Thanksgiving, so nothing will happen on this project after Wednesday next week until the next weekend. That is if we don't decide to put up the Christmas lights next weekend. I will do some work over the weekend & while I'm home on Monday & Tuesday, so there will be more updates.
2 comments:
Hi Tony:
You won't be taking time off next week, this corner cabinet will be dancing like sugar plums through your head the entire Thanksgiving Trip.
Is there any particular reason why you switched router bases??
Like that link to the shoulder plane. I want one of those!!
Neil
Hi Neil:
The reasons I switched to the round base are:
1. It's clear. The factory base isn't.
2. It is cut to accept guide bushings directly. With the factory base, you have to install a metal doodad with 2 screws to put on a guide bushing. I've already lost the original screws & had to go out & buy replacements. With this base, it won't be necessary.
3. The Pat Warner base is round, centered on the bit, and much larger than the factory base. The factory base has a tendency to be unstable & rock; that tendency should be greatly reduced, if not eliminated, with the larger base.
4. I have the clear Pat Warner base for my Bosch 1617 & love it. I figured I couldn't go wrong with his clear base for this router.
Tony
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