I thought I would take a few minutes to review the check list from the So Just How Do You Make a Corner Cabinet? post & show how far I've come with this project and how that list has actually changed. After all, the list of steps in that posting was just a best guess as to how everything would go. Since I haven't printed that list out and checking things off as I went, I'll go through it all now.
What I'm going to do is go through the list, step by step, and add "Done" to the step if it's done. Things will get moved around if the order has changed, and there will be more explanation about steps that got deleted & replaced by others.
OK, here we go!
- Make pattern for Top / Bottom Shelves -- Done
- Cross-cut blanks for Top / Bottom Shelves to rough length -- Done
- Cross-cut blanks for Wide Backs to rough width -- Done
- Rip blanks for Top / Bottom shelves to rough width -- Done
- Rip blanks for Wide Backs to rough width -- Done
- Lay out over-sized shape of Top / Bottom shelf on each blank -- Done
- Cut Top / Bottom shelves to rough size & shape -- Done
- Use router with pattern bit to cut Top / Bottom shelves to final size & shape -- Done
- Plane stock for Base Cabinet Sides to thickness -- Done
- Rip Sides for both cabinets to rough width -- This and the next couple of steps didn't go so well. If you recall, the splitter on my table saw was out of alignment with the blade, and I had to go to Woodcraft and use their machines to straighten everything.
- Rip Face Frame Stiles to rough width -- Done
- Rip Face Frame Rails to final width -- Done
- Cross cut Base Cabinet Sides and Face Frame Stiles to final length -- Done
- Cross cut Upper Cabinet Sides and Face Frame Stiles to final length -- Done
- Cut all rabbets (Top / Bottom Shelves. Base Cabinet Sides, Upper Cabinet Sides) -- Done
- Cut all dadoes (Base Cabinet Sides, Upper Cabinet Sides) -- Done
- Fit Sides to Base Cabinet -- Done
- Fit Sides to Upper Cabinet -- Done
- Set bevel angle on table saw to 22.5° using Wixey & scraps to fine tune -- This step was deleted
- Rip Sides to final width -- Done
- Rip Face Frame Stiles to final width -- Done
- Reset blade to 90° -- This step was replaced with: Cut birds mouth joints in Sides
- Lay out Face Frame Rails -- Done
- Cut all Face Frame Rails to final length -- Done
- Fit Wide Backs to Base Cabinet -- Done
- Fit Wide Backs to Upper Cabinet -- Done
- Set blade to 45° using Wixey & scraps to fine tune -- Done
- Rip Wide Backs to final width (beveled cut) -- Swapped steps 28 & 29. Done
- Rip Base Cabinet Narrow Back & Upper Cabinet Narrow Back to width (blade still set to 45°) -- Done
- Dry fit Base Cabinet -- Done
- Fine tune joints -- Done
- Dry fit Upper Cabinet -- Done
- Fine tune joints -- Done
- Reset blade to 90° -- Done
- Cut Foot Blanks to rough width & length -- Done
- Glue up Feet from the Foot Blanks, 4 blanks to a foot. -- Done
- Rip Feet to final dimensions -- Done
- Drill hole for leg levelers in all blanks for the Base Cabinet -- Done
- Glue Feet to the Bottom Shelves -- Done
- Extend leg leveler hole through the Base Cabinet Bottom Shelf -- Done
- Install leg levelers -- Done
- Drill shelf pin holes in Sides & Wide Backs -- Done
- Glue up Base Cabinet -- Done
- Glue up Upper Cabinet -- Done
- Cut the three Base Cabinet Top pieces to final width & rough length (best if I can get them from one piece)
- Route all molding profiles
- Cut arc in bottom of Base Board -- Done
- Set bevel angle on table saw to 22.5° using Wixey & scraps to fine tune -- Rather than change the bevel angle of the saw, I just used my Osborne EB3 miter gauge set to 22.5° & raised the blade to full height.
- Fit & miter moldings to Base Cabinet
- Glue & brad moldings to Base Cabinet
- Fit & miter Base Cabinet Top pieces
- Glue & brad Base Cabinet Top pieces to Base Cabinet
- Fit & miter moldings to Upper Cabinet
- Rip blanks for Adjustable Shelves to rough width
- Make pattern for Adjustable Shelves
- Cross cut blanks for Adjustable Shelves to rough length
- Lay out shape of Adjustable Shelf on each blank
- Cut Adjustable Shelves to rough size & shape
- Use router with pattern bit to cut Adjustable Shelves to final size & shape.
- Cut Adjustable Shelf Edging to final width & rough length
- Cut rabbet on front edge of Adjustable Shelves
- Cut rabbet on Adjustable Shelf Edging
- Fit Adjustable Shelf Edging to Adjustable Shelves (ends have 45° miters)
- Finish Base Cabinet, Upper Cabinet and Adjustable Shelves
- Install Base & Upper Cabinets in dining room
- Cut blanks for Lower Door Panel to rough width & length
- Glue up blanks for Lower Door Panel
- Cut blanks for Upper Door Panel to rough width & length
- Glue up blanks for Upper Door Panel
- Cut Lower Door Stiles to final width & rough length
- Cut Upper Door Stiles to final width & rough length
- Cut all Door Rails to final width & length
- Cut curve in Upper Door Top Rail
- Cut grooves in all Lower Door Rail & Stiles
- Cut grooves in both Upper Door Stiles & the Upper Door Bottom Rail
- Cut deeper groove in Upper Door Top Rail
- Cut arch in Upper Door Top Rail & sand smooth
- Cut stub tenons on the ends of all Door Rails
- Cut decorative grooves in Upper & Lower Door Panels
- Dry fit Lower Door
- Fine tune joints
- Dry fit Upper Door
- Fine tune joints
- Glue up Lower Door
- Glue up Upper Door
- Cut Lower Door Stiles to finish length
- Cut Upper Door Stiles to finish length
- Make Door Bead Edge Molding
- Set blade to 45° using Wixey & scraps to fine tune
- Fit & miter Door Bead Edge Molding to Lower Door
- Glue & brad Door Bead Edge Molding to Lower Door
- Fit & miter Door Bead Edge Molding to Upper Door
- Glue & brad Door Bead Edge Molding to Upper Door
- Finish doors
- Mount hinges to doors
- Mount doors to cabinets
- Mount Knobs to doors
- Mount doors to Cabinets
- Mount door catches
You can see we're slightly more than 1/2 done, and I still have to route molding profiles & miter them. To that end, I stopped at Condon's at lunch on Tuesday & bought a 5/4 white oak board to make my crown moldings & ogee molding from. The board was 5" wide by 10' long, about 5 bd ft. Since I had my car & not the van, I had them cut it in half before I took it home. So now it's two boards 5" wide by about 5' long.
The reason I bought this extra boards is because the stuff I got from Lakeshore is cut a little too close to final size for me to feel comfortable cutting these moldings. My fingers are probably going to be just a little bit too close to the bit if I try to route the profiles into these boards.
So I hope to get up to Wood Craft again one day next week, after Christmas, and rip the two halves in half, then joint & plane them square. Then I'll be able to take them home & route my profiles.
I'm probably not going to get any work done on the cabinet, and I'm probably not going to post anything more until after Christmas. So for all those who celebrate, let me take a moment to wish you all a Merry & Holy Christmas!
2 comments:
Hi Tony......
Liked going through the list. I'd forgotten how detailed it was.
After starting, did you add any steps to the procedure sheet???
Very Interesting to see......Neil
Neil:
You're right, I forgot to add a few steps to the list that I actually performed. In the original list, I had nothing about using pocket screws. I used them both to put the face frame together and to attach the carcase to the face frame.
Other than that, I don't believe I added any other steps to the list.
Happy New Year, bro!
Tony
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